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| Topics | |||
|---|---|---|---|
| What are Sticky or Slow Keys?
Who can fix it How long will it take How much could it cost Spilled Drinks Prevention |
Mechanical Problems
External Fix Internal Fix Grease Problems External Fix Internal Fix |
Other Resources
Broken keys Key out of line "Clunk" elimination Replacement parts |
Button problems
M1 button fix Compressed air Contact cleaner Silicone spray WD-40 |
There are two type of problems: Mechanical and/or grease.
A mechanical problem feels more like a something scraping on the key
or the key feels stiff.
A grease problem makes the key sticky or sluggish - it still moves
smoothly, but doesn't respond quickly.
Spilled Drinks
This may be a simpler fix than cleaning individual keys. One user says
he got a can of contact cleaner in a spray can, opened the 01, then sprayed
"the contacts under the keys". This seemed to work.
Smoke-filled rooms are as bad for your 01 as they are for you. Smoke particles build up in the lubricant, which tends to dry it out or turn it to sludge.
I get the sense that Korg may have used inappropriate grease in some of the earlier units or different models, grease that didn't age well, or dried out in environments unlike Japan's. In that case, covering your keyboard won't help - the grease simply has to be replaced.
A Korg repair guy in Asia sent the following:
"Strange that it may sound that although the Yamaha DX series, the
Korg M1, Korg T2-T3 and other keyboards all use the Yamaha Keystrip. It
is only the 01/w series which suffer from Sticky Keys.
The main reason which I observed is the rubber bushing under the keys
whose main function is to make sure that the Keys do not have a horizontal
play I usually trim this rubber bushing which solves the problem." [98Jun01]
I haven't heard any mention of "rubber bushing" problems from anyone else. Whether no one noticed, or whether this problem is unique to Asia (weather, manufacturing, etc.) I don't know. If you have your 01 open, you might take a look.
This easy fix seems to work most of the time. If it doesn't, you may
need to open your 01. Before you do that, take a look at external lubrication
fixes just in case your problem isn't mechanical.
The "spring" that returns the key back to resting position is actually a flat piece of metal, about 2-1/2" long by 1/8" wide. It is forked at one end, the two fingers straddling a small plastic post molded in the bottom of the key and rests against a notch.
Closely examine the position of this spring both before and after repositioning. A spring can pop out if you're not careful.
The position of this spring is crucial for smooth operation. The fork may slip off the notch. In some cases, the notch is said to become worn. In that case, one user reports shaving the molded post slightly helped.
If re-positioning the spring doesn't fix the problem, try flipping the spring over (turning it upside down) and re-installing it. One user said he got improved action by flipping all the springs upside down.
You may have to remove a key to re-install the spring. You can test the key immediately to see if it's moving smoothly.
There is some grease on the pivot-point of each key. This grease should not be removed (accidentally cleaned) if the grease is still good.
Compressed Air
Compressed air is clean air (or other
inert gas) in a can (much like any aerosol spray, but without the solution).
It's good for blowing (blasting?) dust and small objects out of tight places.
It can be bought at most stores that sell computer or electronic supplies.
In my opinion, compressed air can't hurt, but it's unlikely to help unless
something fell between the keys and you can physically blow it out.
Spray Lubricants
Two popular lubricants are WD-40 and silicone
spray. These are available in hardware stores or departments. Sometimes
they can be found in the automotive section. Spraying a lubricant from
outside is a sloppy way to get things working, but it may help if some
spray happens to seep where it's needed.
WD-40 Risks: You don't know what else the spray may land on inside the 01 and whether or not that could cause problems. WD-40 isn't intended for precision movements like expensive electronic keyboards. I had one user report that WD-40 dissolved the plastic keys on his Roland synth. I've heard no such reports about the 01, but this should be a warning that WD-40 should not be used randomly.
Contact Cleaner
Contact cleaner is a little like alcohol
in a spray can. It is a chemical cleaner designed to dissolve corrosion
off electrical contacts. Contact cleaner typically does not have any lubricant
in it, so it leaves a clean, dry surface. In keyboard mechanisms you want
clean, but you don't want dry. The pivot point has surfaces that rub together
and grease is needed for smooth operation and reduced mechanical wear.
WD-40 is a contact cleaner with an oily lubricant included, but we prefer
to avoid WD-40 (see WD-40 Risks) and use grease
in the 01. You can find contact cleaner at electronic supply stores like
Radio Shack.
NOTE: Several users highly recommend completely removing the delicate activator strip before doing any work. This takes more time, but activators are easily damaged while working on the keys.
Julian van Eyken described his experience:
"Just one warning though that I learned and might save someone (like
me!) a bit of bother: It's well worth removing the strip of metal contacts
from underneath the keys on the keyboard unit before you remove/replace
individual keys. It's easy to do, comes away in one section when you undo
the screws holding it in (although it's all mounted on circuit board so
a little fragile, but no problem if you're careful). It's just that it's
very easy to bend the contacts with the key posts otherwise, which is very
awkward to fix." [posted 99Oct08]
When you reassemble the keyboard, be careful that the key springs don't slip off the guides, which will cause another sticky key. Test all the keys for smooth action before final re-assembly.
Gregory Winer said it best (he's been there):
"The problem is most commenly (though not always) caused by a slippage
of a metal retention spring that returns the key to position. On the back
end of each key, there is a small plasic lip. Due to over-exuberant playing
or normal wear and tear, this lip can become damaged and throws the key
off
kilter getting it stuck on the adjoining keys.
"Unfortunatly, this is not an easy repair, since Korg had the great wisdom to put the entire key assembly underneath the motherboard. You must remove nearly everything except the power supply and the front panel buttons (which are behind the keyassembly to get at the keys).
"Assuming you get the keyassembly out, place it with the front of the keys facing you, face up. Remove the white plastic retention strip across the back length of the keyboard. It should come up quite easily, as it resebles a piece of decorative weather stripping. This piece keeps the keys from slipping back and popping out the springs.
"Start with a black key - they must come out before the white ones will, and you may need to start near a C# and remove half an octive to get to a particular key. Push the key back (you'll feel some resistance) and up in back (put some downward pressure on the front of the key to make it easy) and it should pop out making a little *ping*. If you inspect the rear lip of the key, you'll be able to tell if it's cracked off or not. Some ingenuity may be able to rescore the lip, or just purchase a new key.
"Don't loose the little metal piece of sheet metal underneath the key. This is the retention spring. To reassemle the keys, place the retention piece under the little plastive bridge on the underside of the key , with the divit in the retension spring inside the key and the flat end out gently and resting on the little "tower". You'll notice a slot on the key assembly where the flat part of the retention piece fits in. This can be a little aggrivating, so be patient: Place the key just slightly in front of where it's supposed to go, and gently slide the key backwards. You should feel some resistance as the retention spring lifts off of the "tower" and slides into it's groove. Gently hook the rear lip of the key over the key assembly, an viola! you're done. Replace the plastic retainer and reassemble. This fix should work on Wavestations and 01/W's." (from a mail list posting on 95Oct06)
Other Resources
Visit http://www.hajo.kessener.net/01w
or http://www.hajo.kessener.de/01w/main.html.
Replacement Parts
Some of the parts used in the key mechanism section (individual keys,
flexible strip, etc.) are available from www.korgparts.com.
My first choice would be to use grease that is normally used on keyboards (like the grease from Yamaha ). I am not knowledgeable about grease (e-mail me if you are), but the wrong kind of lubricant can react with material it comes in contact with. The result could range from the lubricant soon gumming up to attacking plastic parts. I haven't heard of any 01 damage, so don't get nervous. Just don't grab any old can of grease (like axle grease for car bearings) and start slapping it on. Learn a little first.
Types of grease recommended by 01 users are:
b) Inexpensive "key guide grease" from Yamaha (part no. G -31KA). This makes sense since the 01 keyboard mechanism was rumored to have been made by Yamaha.
c) Rod & Reel grease (used on fishing rod reels). Available from the Wal-Mart (a common discount store in the US) sporting goods department.
d) Watch spring grease, available from a jeweler's store.
e) One user said he used lithium grease (fairly cheap and common - check the automotive section in the store). He also thought graphite grease would work.
f) "I've been using a flourosilicone grease which can be used on plastic parts. It's white in color and seems to last forever." [2001Mar04]
Disassemble the problem key. Use the alcohol and swabs to clean the key, guide post and inset tab. Put new grease in all the places you cleaned out old grease, using toothpicks as necessary.
Some people like spray cleaners, like Fantastic, 409, or whatever. I think you're probably okay with any "mild detergent", like warm soapy water. My only concern with spray cleaners is a soapy/waxy coating it sometimes leaves behind if you use too much and don't rinse. There is also the possibility that whatever is in the spray may seep into the key mechanics, where it can build up and/or react with the grease, making it gum up.
User Report: "Try using just a damp cloth first as water is a good solvent. When I need something stronger I use a general purpose cleaner in a mild form. In other words, I dilute it with water. NEVER spray a cleaner directly on a keyboard. ALWAYS spray a small amount of cleaner on a damp cloth, then apply to the keyboard." [2001Mar04]
The keys are reportedly the same as those used in the Yamaha DX7. You might check into using a DX7 key from a local Yamaha repair shop.
Presumably you would follow this same Dis-assembly/Re-assembly procedure to replace a broken key.
User report: "I've been able to fix any broken key with a glue known as "Polyzap". It's an extra strong super glue that can be found in hobby or RC modeling stores. I've used spare broken keys to cut the material I need and then glue them to the key I'm working on. I then shape them with a file." [2001Mar04]
Pevo of Australlia wrote:
"If you are game take off the back cover. You will find that the key
has a piece that acts as a stopper preventing it from lifting higher than
the other keys. It "stops" in a felt bar. In my case this had broken off.
I found the piece that had broken off in the keyboard's workings and glued
it back on clamping it in place over night. It worked." (from a mail list
posting 96May21)
"Another step I do when refurbishing the keys is to remove {I think Bob meant "replace". kw} the felt strip that the keys contact when they are at rest with a strip of hi-tech weatherstripping (nylon fabric surrounding a foam core). This eliminates the "Clunk" you normally get when you release a key during normal play and makes playing more enjoyable." [2001Mar04]
If you have a mechanical (dirt) problem, the only fix is to go inside your 01. Getting to these buttons is reported to be extremely difficult.
Dirt
One or more buttons on the top panel can get more difficult to use
over time. You may have to push harder, wiggle it, or push multiple times
before it works. It seems like the only fix is to go inside the 01 and
spray them with a cleaner/lubricant.
There hasn't been much talk about these. One guy who tackled the problem said the biggest problem is getting to the buttons - it took him 3 hours. There is a plastic screen protecting the buttons. This screen is held in place with 2-sided tape that can be CAREFULLY separated with a small knife. Once inside, you can clean and maybe spray the buttons with WD-40.
User Report: "The best fix I've found, although a little labor intensive, is to desolder the switch from the circuit board and soak them in denatured alcohol while actuating the button many times. This really does a nice job of cleaning the internal contacts." [2001Mar04]
User Report: "'GC BATH SPRAY' works very well when spraying through into the keys- it is a PC board clearner. GC Bath is EXTREMELY flammible so be careful. You can get it from most electronic surplus stores." [2003May04]
Buttons Stop Working
If some or all of the buttons suddenly stop working, it's possible
you slipped into a bug (problem) in the 01/w operating system. For details,
visit my ROMs page.
M1 Button Fix
A VERY industrious M1 owner found and installed replacement buttons
in his M1. I don't know if the 01/W uses similar switches (and I'm not
about to disassemble mine just to find out). However, if any 01 owner wants
to try this repair, here are the details (let me know how it goes).
Buttons were ordered from Mouser Electronics, Inc. at http://www.mouser.com.
Toll free: (800) 346-6873. e-mail: sales@mouser.com
Button part number 688-SKHHAP.
Description: 6.0 x 6.0 x 9.5mm 160gf
Manufacturer: Alps Tactile Switches
Cost: 20 (US) cents each when 50 were bought.
These buttons are rated for 1,000,000 operations. A dust-free button is also available (part number unknown by me) which is rated for 200,000 operations.
Buying the buttons will be the easy part. Dis-assembling and re-assembling your 01 is a chore but can be done by anyone who is patient and organized.
However, unsoldering the old buttons and installing the new is a job only for those experienced in soldering. De-soldering is tricky - if you get careless you can burn or otherwise damage the PC board. You will need a good solder-sucker, or know how to use solder-wick (or old stranded wire). After carefully removing the old buttons, clean the pads and solder in the new.
The M1 owner's local Korg repair shop quoted $500 to do this repair. It cost him under $25. He estimated it took him 4 hours for desoldering plus 1/2 hour for soldering plus 2 hours for disassembly/assembly = 6.5 hours. [our thanks to Ron Allen for sharing his work. 2003Jul31]
E-mail me if you have tips in this area.
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